Fatty Crab
643 Hudson St., West Village, NY
I usually have a keen sense for the exact moment when something is going to take a turn for the worse. Just like any time a big name rapper appears in the opening credits to a blockbuster action film, sometimes you just know things are about to suck. I found myself confronted with exactly such a moment when I made my recent trip to Fatty Crab in the West Village. I rolled in with a party of six, and was initially told my table would be ready in ten minutes. Twenty passed, and then came the “wait, Common is in this?” moment. The host explained that the table of two he was expecting to leave just ordered an extra vegetable and some beers. At this point, I had to be at a show in forty minutes and had no choice but to wait it out or head to the Highline hungry. I chose the former, and waited for my table, now convinced that my rushed dinner would be a huge disappointment. Luckily, I was wrong. Once we finally sat, our waitress hit the ground hustling and made sure we not only got out of there in time, but also had a killer meal. Fatty Crab is not for everyone. The food is Malaysian, and the flavors aggressive. However, if that sounds like your style, you are in serious business. The chili crab is fantastic, and the watermelon pickle and crispy pork salad belongs in the pork dish hall of fame. I did happen to be with a friend who travels to the region often, and he made it clear that while Fatty Crab is good, there are other authentic joints in Manhattan that do excellent Malaysian food for a fraction of the price … sounds like we’ve got some research to do.
Food Rundown:
Steamed Pork Bun
Yet another pork bun, these are pretty standard, though they come with a unique green salad that you are to put in the bun, and a dipping sauce. Good, but not going to make a run at Ippudo or Momofuku.
Watermelon Pickles and Crispy Pork
This was absolutely amazing. Big cubes of pork belly served with big cubes of watermelon. All the best parts of a Fourth of July BBQ all at once, right in your face.
Chinese Broccoli with Salted Fish
The salted fish is interesting, and adds lots of flavor to the broccoli. From what I understand, this is a pretty standard Malaysian dish.
Nasi Lemak
Another traditional Malaysian dish, or some version of it. This is a chicken leg and thigh (bone in) atop rice, pickled vegetables, and some pineapple, with a curry sauce. A fantastic mix, and my expert at the table explained that the only way to eat Nasi Lemak is to get a bit of each thing from the plate on your fork at once, and take a bite. Get after it.
Short Rib Rendang
This was interesting … a short rib dish in a strong Rendang sauce. I don’t know if I would order it again as it was an aggressive spice combination. User beware.
Chili Crab
This is a signature dish for the Fatty Crab, and it’s amazing. The chili crab arrives in a giant bowl with the crab legs hanging out all over the place and swimming in a rich, savory and sweet chili sauce. Getting to the meat of the crab (as always) is a hassle, but not to worry – they serve you giant pieces of toast so you and your bloody knuckles can soak up the goodness. One note of caution: market price on the day I visited was $45.
