Mas (farmhouse)

39 Downing St., West Village, NY

8.8

map & more

Neighborhood
West Village

Cuisine
American
French

Nearby
Blue Note
City Winery
Le Poisson Rouge
Santos Party House
SOB's

212-255-1790

Official Website

By Andrew Steinthal
July 21, 2009

The more I read about Mas, the more it became clear – Mas needed to be my next fine dining destination. So to celebrate my 29 years on this earth, Mas got the call. After witnessing what appeared to be an ecstasy induced seizure by a fellow food freak at the mere mention of Mas, I knew this was the right move. Literally she was foaming at the mouth, eyes rolling into the back of her head, and nearly falling out of her chair as she attempted to recall her glorious meal. It was one of those “holy sh*t, I immediately need to see you do that again” moments.

With high hopes and empty stomachs we rolled up seven deep and sat at Mas’ lone big table. My only complaint about the table was that we were in direct line with the air conditioning which was pumping right on our faces the whole time. Not the most comfortable way to spend a meal. The design is one that can only be described as modern rustic. A seamless blend of wood, stone, and mirrors produces a subtle elegance. The service was superb and our waiter was laid back and informative. Quite impressive and accommodating is the fact that, for their four-course $68 price fix tasting menu (one app, two mains, one dessert), you can pick anything from the menu. We sampled just about everything on the menu and the result was one of the better meals I’ve had in a long time. Let’s get down to business.

Food Rundown:

Yellowfin Tuna l’Occidental
It’s their signature dish and the only item that’s been on the menu since Mas’ inception. It’s not your typical tuna dish either. The only cooking on this sashimi grade tuna is done by the hot butter that is poured on it. That’s right, you heard that correctly. This is good stuff and the perfect way to kick off your farmhouse feast.

Prime Beef Tenderloin Carpaccio
Served with all kinds of goodness including broiled quail egg, aged balsamic vinegar and black summer truffles, this was arguably the best dish of the night. A perfect conglomerate of flavors and the other must order appetizer. I know it’s a farmhouse but you’re going to have to skip the salads here. It’s all about the beef and the tuna.

Roasted Sea Scallops
Quality is more important than quantity when it comes to scallops and this dish exemplified that theory. Served with red onion puree and English peas in a garlic pesto, these little guys were spot on.

Cornmeal Crusted Soft Shell Crabs
Whoa. Another winner. I know I already said the beef and tuna were vying for best dish of the night but this was on that same level. It couldn’t have been cooked any better and Mas should be making milkshakes with that bacon cream.

Braised Flying Pigs Farm Pork Belly
This was easily the most tender piece of pork I’ve ever eaten in my life. Not sure if this was slow cooked or what but it triumphantly melts the second it hits your mouth. Also, the potato puree with red wine onions and beet greens in a bay cream acted like whipped cream on top, or in this case underneath, the pork belly.

Macerated Local Strawberries on Creme Fraiche Financier
Whatever that means … real talk: rich, creamy vanilla ice cream with sugar strawberries and some little candies in there. We tried all the desserts, they were all good. This was the best.