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It would seem to us here at Immaculate Infatuation that the only way to properly assess the fawned over revival of the Minetta Tavern is to take aim directly at the ridiculous love fest that both the national and New York food media has had with the place. Let’s start here – everyone chill the f–k out.
I don’t want to start this review out with negativity, but it’s only fair that we discuss what has been said about Minetta. All the hype led us in with high expectations, as it would with anyone paying attention to the heavy hitters like The New York Times, New York Magazine, and The Food Network. It’s one thing to read a chorus of glowing reviews about a new restaurant online, but once Frank Bruni crowns Minetta Tavern “the best steakhouse in the city,” you should be expecting perfection. It’s also probably worth mentioning that Tyler Florence went off about the burger on the Food Network for a full half hour, but then again, anything that guy puts in his mouth on television is “fantastic.” That being said, here’s the Infatuation bottom line: while the food at Minetta Tavern is very good, it does not, and can not live up to all the hype. Is it the best steakhouse in New York? No way.
Our meal at Minetta was definitely satisfying, but there were some notable let-downs. The $26 Black Label Burger is excellent, and the cheaper Minetta Burger is also very good, but going to a place like this just for a burger seems counter-intuitive … a burger joint, this is not. For starters, there is a gigantic bouncer with a clip board at the door, and reservations at a decent hour are nearly impossible to secure. The room is appealing and the service is good, but an attempt at exclusivity diminishes the charm. If Minetta Tavern were a little cheaper, a little more accessible, and a little less Waverly Inn, it could be one of the great restaurants in New York for a long time to come. We’ll see if it can continue to thrive under the weight of such great expectations.
Food Rundown:
Salade De Homard (Lobster Salad)
One of the celebrated appetizers on the menu, this was OK, but not amazing. The lobster was good enough, and the greens fresh and tasty, but it lacked that one thing tying it all together. I wouldn’t order it again, and I don’t recommend it.
Tartare Goutez
A trio of steak, veal, and lamb tartare presented beautifully intertwined on the plate. The steak was the best of the three, though all were very good.
Potatoes Anna
A pinwheel of potatoes, somewhat scalloped and somewhat hashed. This was also the subject of much praise among critics. I found it to be far too salty.
Black Label Burger
A burger not of ground beef, but of a prime cut of dry aged rib-eye, ground and pattied. It is then topped with only sauteed onions, and the chef will recommend that you add nothing else. Without a doubt, this is a pretty unbelievable burger, but you better hit the ATM.
Minetta Burger
This is a very good burger, and probably the way to go what with the hefty price tag on the Black Label Burger. Fantastic with the onions and cheddar that top it off, and the fries are worth mentioning as well. They’re dropped twice in the fryer and the end result is an incredibly good, crunchy fry.
Tavern Steak
When they put this steak in front of us, I expected an oversized apron to come with it and a challenge from the waiter of “finish it and it’s free”. What looked to me like 72 ounces, this is a Fred Flinstone special if I’ve ever seen one. A heavy char covers the entirety of the steak, and the meat was tasty, but not something I would order again.
Filet Mingon
The filet was definitely the best of the steaks we had, it was tender and cooked perfectly.











