Immaculate Infatuation

Picture yourself on set of Bravo’s hypothetical new show Americas Next Top Masseuse. They build an uber-slick marble and stone spa, fully equipped with wood paddle ceiling fans, sparkling tiles, cushy couches and private cabanas. The manufactured sound of running water mixed in with an old Dido track off Ultra Chilled Volume 2 set the sonic mood. Are two Amazon women going to come out from behind the curtain and give me the massage of a lifetime? Nope, I’m about to get dinner at Travertine. Bummer.

Situated on the southern end of Nolita, Travertine feels incredibly out of place. It would make more sense in the meat packing district, and even there it would be extreme. I’m sure there are people out there who’d enjoy this kind of setting; they just checked into the Gansevoort Hotel, already have reservations at Spice Market for dinner and definitively don’t read Immaculate Infatuation. If the food was amazing I wouldn’t be as hard on Travertine as I am, but the best dish we tasted all night was an homage to the specialty of the restaurant located there before they took over the space. The bottom line: don’t waste your time or money. There are way better options in the city.

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As you may have noticed in our original review, we liked the food at Irving Mill, and it was a great place to grab some grub and a beer in a chilled out country home atmosphere. But when Chef Ryan Skeen left for Allen & Delancey (where he was recently fired via email after a Twitter outburst), Irving Mill decided to start throwing a nightly college rager like the ‘rents went out of town on prom night; red ropes, a doorman, long lines, bud light with lime, pink popped collars, and “I Gotta Feeling” on repeat.

The Monday burger special is still very popular, and the kitchen seems to still be turning out reasonable food – but management has decided that the best way to keep the doors open is to set up bottle service and pay some punk kid to “DJ” from his MacBook three nights a week. This is great news for every “Junior Executive” at JP Morgan with a $500 credit limit on his Discover card, but for the rest of us, it’s essentially the worst thing to happen to the neighborhood since the Wu Tang Clan played a reunion show at Irving Plaza.

So, what was once an Infatuation approved restaurant now has a listing on Club Planet and is a late night destination for every $40,000 millionaire in the Tri-State area. We’re going to steer clear no matter the time of day. Then again, if you’re looking for New York City’s hottest foam party, check their website for details. We’re betting they do a brisk business with the T.G.I. Friday’s crowd once it opens down the street. That is, if it can survive. Our money says this place is closed down and boarded up by March 1st.

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Cookshop, like Five Points, is a review that was long overdue on this site. There aren’t many restaurants in New York City that you can count on for an excellent meal regardless of circumstance, and this one is certainly among the few. Chances are that you, a dedicated Immaculate Infatuation reader, already know all of this, and have either recently dined at Cookshop or confidently sent a friend on a recommendation. Then again, maybe you haven’t.

In that case, we can simply tell you that breakfast, brunch, and dinner are all amazing, and that Cookshop needs to be on your list. Or, we can put it into our own terms to help you really understand how we feel. How good is Cookshop? So good that you won’t give a damn if you are the only person in the house not on a really intense date. So good that you will swear to never waste another dollar on trendy let downs like Permanent Brunch or The Standard Grill. Cookshop is so good that you’ll want to take your leftovers home and bury them in a time capsule.

Yep, we back this place pretty hard. Find yourself some time in the near future to visit. And make sure to bring something along worth burying.

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Last weekend, we went out for a buddy’s 30th birthday and wound up at the friends and family opening party at Rye House. Awesome. A timely new review sitting and waiting to be written without having to go out of my way. Perfect timing too considering both UrbanDaddy and Grub Street blew this place up that same morning.

The recent movement in NYC nightlife away from red ropes and bottle service might actually make this city fun to ‘go out’ in again. We’re huge fans of these new school drinking establishments that deliver the goods with their beer and cocktail repertoire, but also make sure the kitchen plays a big role in defining what they’re all about. Rye House is a perfect example of this trend. It’s not fancy or trying too hard. It’s the kind of place ideal for grabbing beers and grub with friends after work on a Friday night. When I think about bars in this city I actually enjoy hanging out in, Rye House definitely fits the mold.

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As you can imagine, Hell’s Kitchen can be a confusing answer to the question, “where should we have dinner?” Both the restaurant and the neighborhood from which it takes its name are a culinary unknown to most that don‘t live in the area. If you live there, chances are you constantly tell your friends about all the great restaurants you know about and yet you still can‘t get anyone to come eat with you. We are admittedly a little in the dark when it comes to Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood favorites, but working and seeing shows in the area demands that you have a go-to spot. Our go-to in Hell’s Kitchen is, well, Hell’s Kitchen.

The casual but hip restaurant is not an attempt at authentic Mexican, but rather an inspired interpretation using Latin flavors and fresh ingredients. Think Rosa Mexicano but far less annoying, and much better entrées. The dinner hours are always crowded and noisy, as a Mexican restaurant should be. Lunch is usually less busy and equally delicious, but Hell’s Kitchen is best enjoyed when the eating is accompanied with heavy tequila and beer drinking.

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