BLT Fish
21 W 17th St., Chelsea, NY
I can’t make up my mind on how I feel about BLT Fish. We’ve had an up and down relationship over the years. It all started with a bad experience – a $90 whole red snapper that didn’t taste right going in and had our entire table paying the price on the way out. On the other hand, staying away from the whole fish and going heavy on octopus and scallops has led to some enjoyable meals here recently. Quite the conundrum, I know. Downstairs, I feel like their whole “fish shack” thing is contrived. A big sailfish mounted on the wall doesn’t make you authentic. Upstairs, it’s hard to see past the extreme price tag that often leaves me angry and bitter even though the food is indeed quite tasty.
BLT’s restaurants are new school upscale, sleek dining halls whose service most closely resembles that at a white tablecloth, fine dining establishment. While this formula has resulted in a successful chain of meat markets and steakhouses, it just doesn’t translate well with fish. I’m fine with paying money for good seafood, but oysters and octopus in such a refined environment just doesn’t do it for me. I like my pricey seafood a bit more laid-back, with more character and less Blue Water Grill, if you know what I mean. If my parents want to mess with some upscale fish action then sure, I’ll go to BLT Fish again. If I’m paying, my money’s going to The Mermaid Inn, Mary’s Fish Camp, or Marlow & Sons.
Food Rundown:
Raw Hamachi
Served with chive blossoms in a soy citrus glaze, this is underwhelming to say the least. If a hamachi appetizer is on the menu, more times than not it’s going to wind up at our table. When hamachi is good, it’s spectacular. When it’s not, like in this case, I don’t see a point in putting it on a menu.
Arugula Salad
A pretty simple salad of arugula, fennel, artichokes, and pecorino cheese, it’s a nice compliment to all of the fish on the menu.
Grilled Portuguese Octopus
Perfectly grilled octopus tentacles wrapped around a bed of greens, chickpeas, and roasted red peppers. This dish gets an A on both taste and presentation. It’s a must order.
Sea Salt Crusted New Zealand Pink Snapper
BLT Fish lists their whole fish on the menu by the pound, $37 per pound in this instance. Considering they usually serve you a 2 _ lb fish, we’re talking about a $90 plate to split. At that price, the fish better be life changing. With the salt crust still on, they prepare their trademark dish tableside. The fish was fresh and extra moist (thanks to the salt crust), but holy cow, this was the saltiest fish I’ve ever had in my life. Honestly, I took one bite and that was that. What a complete disaster.
Alaskan Black Cod
This time, when you pay top dollar ($36 for a piece of Cod with no sides), you get your money’s worth. It’s tough to cook a piece of fish better than this one. It had a perfect sear and the acacia marinade works well. I’ll order this again next time.
Maine Sea Scallops
Served over individual beds of greens and endive marmalade, the presentation of this scallop dish would rock Padma’s world and earn BLT Fish immunity for life. The scallops are as good as they look.
Sauteed Garlic Spinach
BLT does spinach right at all their restaurants, this one being no different.
Gnocchi
A small plate of gnocchi with tomato compote that didn’t add much to the meal and felt like an afterthought. I’ll stick with the vegetables next time.
Green Apple Cotton Candy
Your gift for spending over $100 per person? Homemade green apple cotton candy. A nice touch, indeed.
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Mary’s Fish Camp
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