Peasant

194 Elizabeth Street, Nolita, NY

7.0

map & more

Neighborhood
Nolita

Cuisine
Italian
Pasta

Nearby
Bowery Ballroom

212-965-9511

Official Website

By Andrew Steinthal
January 24, 2010

I once witnessed Rachel Ray making it rain $100 bills in Peasant like she was Pacman Jones at a strip club. In her standard not-so-subtle way, she worked the room for everyone to see, slipping hundreds to the chef, waiter and even bus boy. I remember asking our server if I was seeing correctly. “Yeah man, she just slipped me an extra bill on top of the tip she left on the check. She does it all the time.” Hey, if you got it, spend it, right? Hopefully the Infatuation will be rolling into our favorite spots with duffle bags full of cash in the relatively near future. Until then, we’ll leave the balling to Rachel and Pacman.

Peasant is a classic spot, a spacious room that feels more like a rich person’s Tribeca loft than a Nolita restaurant down the block from Cafe Habana. Baskets of apples, potatoes, firewood and produce line the kitchen in the back, where everything is cooked over an open fire. The food is consistent in the sense that some dishes are always excellent and others always mediocre, but if you order right, you can have a solid meal. Whatever you do, eat the spaghetti vongole which will be gushed about in the food rundown below. While Peasant isn’t an Infatuation go-to, it’s definitely a spot we enjoy. The quality service, welcoming space and addicting bread help make up for Peasant’s hit-or-miss menu and inflated prices.

Food Rundown:

Bocconcini
Small balls of warm mozzarella wrapped in thin strips of bacon that melt in your mouth.

Polpi In Purgatorio
Rarely do you find restaurants serving baby octopus whole; it’s usually chopped up and mixed into some kind of salad. Peasant’s ‘pus arrives with its tentacles still intact, simply served in an iron casket, doused in chili peppers. If you can handle the chili kick, definitely order this.

Spaghetti Vongole
One of my all-time favorite pasta dishes, this spicy spaghetti dish is heavenly and an absolute must order. Round, thick and al dente, the pasta is loaded with an assortment of spices, manila clams and tomatoes. Awesome.

Bistecca Alla Fiorentina
Bottom line, if you’re in the mood for a t-bone steak, you should probably go elsewhere. While the buttery beef was tasty, it lacked the juicy depth we expect from this cut of meat.

Agnello Con Polenta
Sliced lamb over a bed of polenta, well seasoned and perfectly cooked medium rare. Solid, but not mind blowing.

Razza Con Capperi
A staple in our Peasant rotation, this roasted skate dish is served in a butter sauce with capers. It’s got nothing on the razza over at Apizz (our favorite), but that won’t stop us from cleaning our plate.