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The Smile

The Smile

26 Bond St., NoHo, NY
7.9


By Chris Stang
March 9, 2010

The Smile is a relatively new “cafe and mixed use concept store” on Bond St. What does that mean? Well, it’s a rustic space that serves food and also sells housewares and nick-nacks to the coolest people you have ever seen. Essentially, it’s hipster Cracker Barrel.

Though The Smile has been open for close to two years now, we’re betting you haven’t heard much about it. Situated a few steps below the sidewalk, it’s a place that you have to be looking for to see, and other than the models and musicians that fill it for brunch, it remains relatively under the radar. Yes, brunch is popular, but it’s not yet overrun by the hoardes in this city that treat the meal like a sport. People eat and linger, everyone seems to know each other, and everyone looks really good – even with dirty hair and last night’s clothes on. Dinner service began only recently and like the breakfast and brunch menu, the food is surprisingly good. Imagine Freemans without the two hour wait. Things here feel laid back and matter-of-fact, as if those running the place have no interest in the hustle that can come along with making a New York City restaurant successful. Maybe they are simply confident that word will spread and people will come. Or maybe they just don’t want them to.


Food Rundown:

French ToastA very simple French toast done with small pieces of baguette and drenched in honey. Served with an amazing maple syrup and fruit, it’s a modest but incredibly tatsy plate.

Baked Eggs
A popular and excellent brunch item at The Smile, we’ve seen a few variations on the menu. One particularly good version is served with avocado and bubbly melted cheese.

Smoked Salmon With Lemon Caper Cream Cheese
This is simply smoked salmon on a thick piece of Sullivan St. Bakery multi-grain toast, with lemon caper cream cheese and a little red onion. One of the best things we’ve eaten here.

Roast Beef Sandwich
Roast beef piled high with a lot of arugula and horseradish cream. Simplicity seems to be the name of the game at The Smile, and this is basic but delicious.

Roasted Beet, Watermelon Radish & Buffalo Mozzarella Salad
This is a dinner menu dish, and is a nice combination of thinly sliced watermelon radish and chunks of beet, with buffalo mozzarella interspersed. A good starter, but I did find myself wishing there was more mozzarella in the mix.

Mussels
A waiter recommendation, and a successful one. We’ve beens seeing a lot of Thai flavored mussels lately, and this one is successful, mostly because the cocunut milk balances out the other flavors.

Roasted Balsamic Chicken
A somewhat reluctant order on my part (the pork sausages or lamb meatballs are more my speed) but this also came with an insistent seal of approval from my server, and it did not disappoint. A perfectly roasted breast and thigh with crispy skin and fingerling potatoes. Order it.

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