We’ve got a handful of spots that we like in Hell’s Kitchen, and there are definitely a few that we still need to hit up. But right now, Taboon is at the top of our list in the ‘hood. That says a lot for the food, considering the restaurant itself lacks most qualities of a typical Infatuation Approved establishment. It’s pricey and a little stuffy, and the music they play is an unlistenable combination of Greek lounge music and Yanni remixes. Oh yeah, and it’s on 10th Avenue. But what Taboon lacks in cool, it more than makes up for with top quality Mediterranean eats and good service.
A taboon is an Arabic word for a wood-burning oven, and the one in the front of this restaurant turns out some damn tasty food. Things that swim seem to benefit the most from the taboon treatment – all of the fish entrees here are excellent, and the octopus and crab salad appetizers should not be missed. They also bake an amazing fresh focaccia and serve it on a paddle, which I then use to jam the entire loaf down my throat at once. More please. Prices are a little steep, so Taboon probably shouldn’t be in your heavy rotation, but we recommend spending the extra bucks if you’re in the area looking for a solid meal.
Food Rundown:
Hummus
One of the waiters tried telling me this is the best hummus in the city. I wouldn’t go that far, but it’s definitely solid. There’s a little cumin and paprika in there, and it’s a good-sized serving. Eat it with the fresh focaccia if you have any left on the table.
Grilled Octopus
A slammin’ appetizer of grilled octopus with julienned apples and some pickled onions. Easily one of the best octopus dishes in town. Order this.
Crab Meat Salad
A fresh and excellent salad of crab meat and feta cheese. This is another must order.
Branzino
As previously mentioned, the fish entrees at Taboon are excellent. This whole branzino unfortunately comes without the head, but it’s light and flavorful. The roast eggplant on the plate doesn’t suck either.
Heraime
A piece of halibut cooked in a sauté pan in the taboon, and then brought directly to your table in the pan. The fish is delicate and perfect, and it sits on a really nice ragout of roasted red pepper. This is my favorite thing on the menu.
Lamb Kebabs
The lamb is ground and then formed on the kebab, so it’s a bit different than what you might get at your local Greek restaurant or dirty Midtown street fair. Well seasoned and tasty nonetheless, and a strong option if you’re not going for fish.
Hanger Steak
Really good hanger steak marinated in zataar, a Mediterranean spice that makes shit taste good. Another standout from the meat group.
