Animal
435 N. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, CA
Things happen when I go to LA. Dangerous things. Voices appear in my head, saying things like “oh yeah, you like the sun” and “of course you can eat In-N-Out again today”. When I am there, I am forced to imagine what a life on the other side could be like, and in my imagination, it could be good.
Luckily, there are a few downsides that beat those nasty thoughts into submission. The most convincing being the fact that I would miss New York’s restaurants too much. Not having a Blue Ribbon or a Frank at my disposal seems unimaginable, and quickly assures me that my tiny apartment and winter are small prices to pay. Then a friend took me to Animal.
Animal is the first restaurant in Los Angeles that I have been to that approaches food with the reckless will to be delicious that so many in New York do. This is not healthy LA restaurant food, and it sure as hell isn’t sceney sushi. Animal is about nose to tail, seasonal cooking with a full commitment to make everything taste unimaginably good. Restraint isn’t in this place’s vocabulary. Pig ears are sliced thin and doused with lime juice and chili, and just in case that isn’t enough, it gets topped with an egg. Gigantic slabs of steak are covered in butter and escargot. Look at that thing. Only in New York would you find something so good and irresponsible on a menu. So I thought.
Animal is exactly the kind of restaurant that we live for, and it’s in LA. Now every time I am there, I have to come up with other things to convince myself that life wouldn’t be awesome out west. Good thing Ed Hardy exists.
Food Rundown:
Baby Kale, Pecorino, Lemon, Smashed Croutons
I wouldn’t recommend wasting valuable stomach space on a green if it wasn’t worth it. This heaping pile of kale is incredibly flavorful and worthy of a spot on the table.
Pig Ear, Chili, Lime, Fried Egg
Psst. Hey pig. Can you hear me eating you? Your ear is way better sliced up and hidden under a fried egg than it is on your head. Thanks.
Barbeque Pork Belly Sandwiches, Slaw
Two fist sized sandwiches with pork belly, some sauce, and some slaw. Really good. See exhibit A.
Melted Petite Basque, Chorizo, Grilled Bread
This is our friend Jordan, displaying the petite basque. He is a movie producer (of course he is) and you should go see his movie The Kids Are All Right .
Hamachi Tostada, Herbs, Fish Sauce Vinaigrette, Peanut
A nice light change from all of the meaty goodness on this menu. This is a beautiful piece of hamachi on a tostada, piled high with herbs, peanuts and some other crunchy goodness that I can only assume are pork parts.
Quail Fry, Grits, Chard, Slab Bacon, Maple Jus
A few pieces of quail fried up like fried chicken and served on a plate with bacon and “maple jus”, which is unbelievable. One of the better things I have eaten in a long time.
Poutine, Oxtail Gravy,Cheddar
Poutine is delicious to begin with, but the addition of oxtail takes this to a whole other level. Last time I went, this was sold out, so arrive early and order two.
Rib Eye for Two, Escargot Butter
A huge steak that should come with a release form. It’s incredible and could easily kill you. It’s probably smart to share this with more than two people and order a whole bunch of other things.
Photo Credit: Bonnie Tsang
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