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Beacon

Beacon

25 W. 56th St., Midtown, NY
6.4


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212-332-0500

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By Andrew Steinthal
August 11, 2010

Critical acclaim and blogosphere acceptance doesn’t come easy in Midtown, but Beacon’s wood burning oven separates it from the majority of the cookie cutter garbage that lines 56th street. We pass on reviewing a lot of restaurants in these parts, mostly because average filler doesn’t necessarily deserve to be ripped apart, and certainly doesn’t warrant praise either. The Beacon is deserving of an Infatuation write-up though, it’s a reliable option that’s got enough flair among a sea of stuffy restaurants and suits to stand out in the crowd. While Beacon isn’t a restaurant on par with our favorite downtown haunts, it’s definitely towards the top of our list near the office. Working late and need a burger/beer break? Grab a stool at the bar and get to business. There’s an all day happy hour at the bar, everyday starting noon: two cocktails, beer or wine with a burger or pizza for $19.95. That’s a solid deal. As you might expect, aside from the bar deal and their new lunch takeout window ($10 burgers), prices are steep. One can only imagine what rent is on this enormous, double-decker space. Thankfully, unlike many of its overpriced neighbors, the food is actually worthy of your currency. You really can’t go wrong with anything from the Open Fire Specialties appetizer menu. Are we getting in a cab and heading uptown just to eat at Beacon? Absolutely not. Is it worth a trip if you’re stuck in Midtown too much? Absolutely.


Food Rundown:

Wood Roasted Oysters
Inconsistent in size and texture, but consistent in terms of flavor, these $18 roasted oysters with shallots and verjus (green juice) are no bargain. That being said, they’re worth ordering if you dig roasted oysters and your boss is picking up the bill.

Waldy’s Wood Oven Pizza
An excellent appetizer to share with the whole table, this huge pizza with mushrooms and onions is always a crowd pleaser.

Roasted Asparagus & Egg
White asparagus is all over menus right now, and usually pairing it with any kind of egg is a big win. Not at Beacon though, according to a friend/white asparagus expert we dined with on our most recent trip, both the asparagus and the egg were overcooked. That didn’t stop him from cleaning his plate, he just wanted it to be known he had higher expectations.

The Beacon Burger
A very solid burger and up there with the best restaurant burger you can get in Midtown. While it’s not making our Top 10 list anytime soon, we’ll certainly feel free to take one down when we’re in the neighborhood. At $19, this burger aint cheap, but it’ll fill you up; 8oz of black angus beef on an onion roll with grilled onions, lettuce and tomato. Enjoy.

Seared Tuna Niçoise Salad
A solid lunch option, I’m always fan of Nicoise salads done right, and this is just that.

Wood Roasted Salmon
Served atop a bed of watercress with horseradish sauce, sauteed red onions and cherry tomatoes (see twitpic), you really can’t go wrong with this dish.

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