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For the average restaurateur, the first incarnation of The John Dory would have been quite the accomplishment – tons of press coverage, a steady flow of customers…who cares if the reviews were mixed? But that wasn’t exactly what Ken Friedman and April Bloomfield had in mind. These two aren’t just after success; the name of their game is domination. They’re the Steinbrenner & Cashman of the food game. In their eyes, The John Dory was a bust, Javy Vasquez style: good enough to be an all-star elsewhere, but a disgrace in pinstripes. Kudos to them for cutting their losses and shutting it down. No self-respecting New Yorker wants to hang out in the Meatpacking District these days anyway, and the Ace Hotel is an absolute gold mine. The Ace has single handedly changed the landscape of Manhattan’s midsection in the high 20′s and low 30′s, and we’ve got Friedman and Bloomfield to thank for that. True, we didn’t freak out over The Breslin, their first Ace Hotel venture, like everyone else. Nearly choking on the toe bone of a massive pig might have had something to do with that. But we have been back a bunch and generally enjoy the vibe. Plus, it’s a hell of a lot better than anything else in the area.
And so after much anticipation, The John Dory 2.0 has opened in The Ace Hotel, and it’s exactly the kind of spot this area needs. The second incarnation of Friedman and Bloomfield’s original idea is a fun, hip oyster bar that’s actually a bar. The entire thing is communal seating, either at the bar or high top tables. There’s a ton of action, and it doesn’t hurt that you can do some serious Scoping Hot Girls/Guys while you eat. Look closely and you can probably do some Celebrity Sighting as well. Tom Colicchio and Top All Stars favorite Richard Blais were both dining separately last time we were there.
The menu at John Dory Oyster Bar features a small but carefully selected raw bar, tasty seafood themed small plates and an excellent cocktail and wine list. Make sure you order the oyster pan roast – it’s absolutely the best thing on the menu. Also, beware that portions are small and prices add up fast. You’re going to spend some money here, but it’s worth it. Lastly, go in expecting a wait. The John Dory doesn’t take reservations, so prepare to grab a drink and wait for a couple of seats to open.
Food Rundown:
Oysters
On our most recent visit, they had three varieties from each coast, each served with a unique and tasty homemade cocktail sauce, which tastes of peppers and vinegar. Check the twitpic.
Razor Clam Ceviche
Not exactly the style of ceviche I was expecting, but I was pleasantly surprised by this salty, oily delight. If you’re into raw clams, definitely check this out.
Main Lobster Chowder
Indeed, fourteen bucks is expensive for a tiny cup of chowder, but when the chowder is loaded with lobster, that’s the price you pay. Either way, we didn’t love it. You can do better on this menu.
Oyster Pan Roast with Uni Crostini
This is a creamy chowder of oysters served with an uni crostini, and it’s ridiculous. Dunk the uni in the dreamy oyster roast and take one of the most glorious bites of your life.
Mussels Stuffed With Mortadella
Another winner, this one is a serving of tasty stuffed mussels that need to be on your table.
Spanish Mackerel Escabeche
A small serving of pickled mackerel, and a nice thing to order to mix it up a bit.
Chorizo Stuffed Squid With Smoked Tomat
There’s a reason why this dish sells out so fast. This Bloomfield signature creation is awesome. Get it if you can.
Dessert
We sampled both the Chocolate Pot with Whiskey Cream, and the Honeycrisp and Almond Tart. Both are worth ordering, especially the Honeycrisp Tart.
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