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Fedora

Fedora

239 W. 4th St., West Village, NY 10014
8.6


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646-449-9336

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By
February 16, 2011

Just so you know, this restaurant is named for it’s previous owner and proprietor, a woman by the name of Fedora Dorado who ran the original establishment for over 50 years before Gabe Stulman took over and revamped it in November. So don’t go thinking it’s an invitation for you to bust out that ridiculous thing that you think makes you look stylish. It doesn’t. It makes you look like a seven year old at a tap recital. Put it away.

Now that we’ve cleared that up, on to business. Fedora is the latest opening from the aforementioned Mr. Stulman who happens to be absolutely en fuego. In just five years, he’s opened Little Owl, Joseph Leonard, Jefferey’s Grocery, and now this. Each restaurant is progressively better than the last, and Fedora could be our favorite. The place is “Perfect For” just about everything, including feeling awesome, which we briefly considered making a new category since we felt so awesome while we ate here. Contributing to the overall feeling of awesomeness: a very comfortable room, lots of action, stiff drinks, pleasant staff members, and excellent food. Throw in the amazing music selections we heard (Modest Mouse, Dandy Warhols, Gnarls Barkley, The Eels) and you’re in Infatuation heaven.

It is, however, important that you know what to expect before you go. This place has more of a “nightlife” feel to it than the some of the other restaurants they run. What that means is that the bar gets crowded as the night goes on, waits can be long for a table (see, reservation policy), and you might actually see someone wearing a fedora. Feel free to tell that person what I said about them.

Photo Credit: Daniel Krieger/Eater

Food Rundown:

Oysters
They run an oyster bar too, so these better be good. They are. We split a tray of east and west coasters and were happy. Beware the green tinted condiment, which has jalapeno in it. It’s delicious, but spicy.

Beef Tartare
One of our favorite things on the table, this is an excellent tartare. The best part is the crunchy rice intermixed for texture. So good.

Fried Pigs Head
We ordered this and were kind of hoping to be looking eye to eye with Piglet when it came to the table. Instead, a plate of porky fritters with greens and gribiche sauce arrived. It’s probably for the better. Order this if you like things that taste good.

Warm Beef Sandwich
One giant beef sandwich served on focaccia and stuffed full of shoestring fries. I absolutely loved this. Get it and share with your table. Have them cut it into sections for you in the kitchen, rather than trying yourself – otherwise shoestring fries are headed for someone’s drink.

Skate On The Bone
The only miss of the night, but man this missed by a mile. We get that bones left in can add flavor and moisture, but we didn’t even think skate had bones. Didn’t the process of natural selection evolve them out for deliciousness? We picked at it and left it basically uneaten, and without us asking the waiter pulled it from the bill. Nice moves.

Fried Chicken
We should probably warn you that this leg of fried chicken comes with the claw still in tact, but you’re reading this site so that’s probably something you think is awesome. We certainly did. We also think this is a must order. The chicken is perfect and is served in a bowl of rice with some Asian soy type sauce. Amazing.

Tall Chocolate Cake
We saw this on literally every table in the place while we drank and waited to be seated, so we ordered it. It’s tall all right – more of a slab than a piece really. We liked it, but weren’t exactly blown away.

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