What Happens When
25 Cleveland Pl., New York, NY
The idea of a “pop-up” restaurant doesn’t really appeal to us. To be honest, we’re not big fans of a “pop-up” anything. Department stores, art galleries, banks, P. Diddy’s Sean John outlets (can’t stop won’t stop)…marketing people around the world have beaten the “pop-up” idea to death over the last few years, and we’re so tired of hearing about sh*t “popping up” that we even have a hard time using a toaster these days.
Clearly then, we were skeptical when we read all the buzz about the new “temporary” restaurant in Soho from Dovetail’s John Frazer. Not only a temporary restaurant, but one with a quirky theme and funky bathrooms. Sounds a whole lot like some corporate douchebag’s idea to get more people using Charmin if you ask us.
Luckily, that’s not what’s going on here at all. What Happens When is actually a very interesting approach to a restaurant, food, and the crowdsourcing of ideas to create something completely unique. The basic premise is this: the restaurant has a lease for nine months, and each month will be a different “movement.” Each movement will be a complete reimagination of the menu and the restaurant, based on a theme. Themes come from the restaurant proprietors, and also those who choose to contribute ideas (and funds) to the cause via Kickstarter. We went a few nights ago, and the current “movement” was inspired in part by a Kickstarter contributor who apparently foraged for food as a child and read a lot of Where The Wild Things Are. What came out the other side is a slightly uncomfortable but whimsical room meant to evoke a forest, and some seriously earthy food. You can read more about it in the Food Rundown, but with almost every dish, we were pleasantly surprised by what we were seeing and tasting, and at times very impressed.
So, at least for this movement, we’ll give a thumbs up to What Happens When – if only for executing an idea in a way that feels less like a PR move and more like one of those “of the moment” things that makes living in New York so interesting. Sort of like those waterfalls they put in the East River a few summers ago, except not stupid.
Food Rundown
Forest Mushrooms
This might be the most “foresty” thing a human being could ever eat. And I’m not even sure humans eat half of this stuff. It’s basically a plate of super earthy mushrooms, salsify (google it), and other things that look like they came directly from the ground beneath a tree to your plate. It’s interesting, but actually quite good – assuming you like mushrooms.
Frog Legs
At first we thought these were dumplings in a bowl, but they were indeed little parts of Kermit. We liked the flavor, and would order them again.
Venison Tartar
This is billed as tartar with Saltine crackers, gooseberries, and spiced puree. We were excited about Saltines, but were a little disappointed to find thin crackers made from…other crackers…instead. Regardless, the tartar was interesting, but not particularly amazing.
Salt Baked Celery Root
Hands down, the best thing we ate all night. I know, you totally would have skipped this. Don’t make that mistake. I’m not even sure how to describe it other than a few pieces of celery root on top of some delicious porridge like stuff – and truffles are involved. Proceed.
Pig
Yes, it’s just called pig on the menu. And it’s one gigantic bowl full of the stuff. Inside that ceramic bucket are cuts of loin, belly and even some head, all atop some lentils. The huge bowl is cool and all, but it’s impossible to eat from. After a while you feel like you are playing that stuffed animal claw game that pissed you off as a kid.
Short Rib
A beautiful short rib atop cheddar cheese polenta. It’s delicious, but very salty. I am OK with that because I have low blood pressure. At least that’s what I tell my doctor.
Crispy Chocolate
The only dessert you need to worry about here. What looks like a brownie is actually a lightly crunchy chocolate thing with mint that will blow your mind. I don’t know how else to describe it.
