What Happens When (Again)
25 Cleveland Place, New York, NY
We weren’t exactly planning on writing up What Happens When more than once. We liked our first visit a lot, but also didn’t really feel the need to run back in for the next iteration of restaurant craziness. But we did anyhow, and we were absolutely blown away. It turns out that this place is even better when they aren’t using dirt and pinecones for inspiration.
What Happens When’s third “movement” (the menu and restaurant change completely every month) is inspired by a painting from the French period of Impressionism. I only know that word because I read it on their website. This new outfitting of the small space is definitely more comfortable than on our first time around – though it was also decidedly more crowded. We had a 9:30 reservation on a Tuesday night, and were finally seated an hour later after reminding them that we were waiting. Strange, considering I made the reservation under Sir Oprah Winfrey. That usually works like a charm.
But other than a little amateur hour at the front of house, our French Impressionist meal was amazing. The vegetable bouillabaisse and the rabbit in filo were two of the better things we’ve eaten all year…and we’ve eaten a whole lot of things. So we felt the need to write up What Happens When again, so that you can still get in before the whole place changes at the end of the month. Just make sure your schedule is a little flexible, and stand by the hostess if you end up having to wait. You know what they say…out of sight, out of mind.
Food Rundown
Shellfish Salad
A deep glass bowl full of all kinds of goodness from the sea, including a lot of octopus, shrimp and some mussels. Olives and fennel make up the rest of the dish and it’s dressed with an anchovy vinaigrette. This was perfect.
Rabbit in Filo
In case you are unsure, we would like you to know that rabbit is delicious. Especially this time of year (Easter). In this application, it’s wrapped in a flaky filo dough and served with yogurt, dates and fresh chickpeas. You should order this.
Vegetable Bouillabaisse
It took some convincing from our waitress to get us on board with the idea of a vegetable bouillabaisse that tastes like anything other than carrot water. But she made a strong case for this entree, and it was the best thing we had all night. Hell, it’s up there with the best things we’ve eaten recently at any restaurant. It’s a beautiful dish – incredibly tasty, and also filling. Someone at your table has to get this, and the rest of you that don’t are definitely going to be mad.
Veal Braise
Another entree winner, we really liked this veal dish. Though we were still thinking about that bouillabaisse the whole time.
