Bowen’s Island Restaurant

1870 Bowens Island Rd, Charleston, SC

8.5

map & more

843-795-2757

Official Website

By Andrew Steinthal
November 2, 2011

This past weekend, I found myself in Charleston, South Carolina for a bachelor party. Unfortunately for Immaculate (and my health), this trip was centered around debauchery, not of the culinary type. Although we sampled Bud Lights at pretty much every bar downtown, our crew of 14 wasn’t exactly presentable enough for the likes of Husk (Bon Appétit’s best new restaurant ), McCrady’s, Hank’s or any of the other heralded Southern cooking establishments we’ve heard so much about. That’ll need to be a whole separate trip.

As fate would have it however, I lucked my way into one of the more unforgettable dining experiences I’ve ever had. We were driving back to our house in Folly Beach, when we saw a sign for oysters and fresh seafood on the side of the road and followed it. We usually don’t review out-of-town spots, but this place was so ridiculous that it needed to be discussed. If ever there were to be an Infatuation Hall Of Fame, Bowen’s Island Restaurant would be inducted on the first ballot.

Located at the end of a secluded dirt road on a tiny strip of land that’s apparently considered an island, this restaurant is a true lowcountry seafood shack. It’s the kind of gem you never really thought existed until you were actually there – a total dive with a ton of personality and an extraordinary view. Being that I’m not from the South, the oysters I’m used to eating are mostly raw, aside from the occasional grilled or fried application. This was my first time eating bushels of local, clustered river oysters via a shovel. After ordering at the bar, my buddy and I were sent down a mysterious flight of stairs to the basement (aka the oyster dungeon) and told to hand our ticket to The Oyster Man. What a trip. I’ve now got my Halloween costume planned out for next year. The Oyster Man serves up trays of steamed oysters for $10 or unlimited for $24. They’re enormous and you have to shuck them yourself. It may be a lot of work, but if you love oysters, you won’t mind. Oysters, cheap beers, fried seafood, crab cakes and shrimp with a view; for a life long New Yorker, this experience wound up being all that I hoped it could be and more.

Here’s the moral of this South Carolina story. Whenever you see a handwritten sign for oysters on the side of the road, trust your instincts and follow it. Good things will happen. And if you’re ever in Charleston, do yourself a favor and take a drive out to Bowen’s Island. There’s a reason why it made the list of 1000 Places To See Before You Die.

Food Rundown:

Oysters
These things are mammoth, salty, delicious, cheap and fun to shuck yourself. Steamed oysters are absolutely nothing like the ones you’re used to eating in the Northeast, but they are excellent. Props to The Oyster Man, he’s a classic.

Crab Cakes
They’re not as good as the best Maryland cakes we’ve had, but they also didn’t suck.

Seafood Sampler
A little bit of everything. The white fish, whatever it was, was delicious and perfectly cooked, and the hush puppies and fried shrimp were both awesome too.

Frogmore Stew
We didn’t get this, but if there is ever a next time, will. Aside from the oysters, this is a lowcountry boil of shrimp, corn and sausage, and is what they’re most well known for.